Just behind the wall at the turn to Bernard’s Beach, between President Sirleaf’s house and the CDC headquarters lies a restaurant, which in my opinion offers the best value for your money in all of Liberia (coming slightly ahead of Green Pasture).
The spot, as far as I know, has no name (and it doesn’t exactly seem like the sort of place where one would ask to confirm). It is more of a cookshop than a restaurant, as it is an open air affair with the requisite plastic tables and chairs. Behind a counter delicious platters of food are served to the rhythmic pounding of a delicious pepper sauce in a number of wooden mortars.
The cuisine is very much West African and I believe a smattering of dishes are available, though I’ve always stuck with my two trusted favorites. I’ve consumed few plates of food in Monrovia outside of private homes that have been as delicious and as good value as the $5 dry rice and attiéké (an Ivorian dish made from fermented cassava) on offer at the cookshop adjacent to CDC.
Another popular item is dumboy, a close relative of fufu that is loaded with a meaty soup that looks like the ideal cure for a hangover or cold. On a few occasions, I’ve seen diners munching on checked rice, with a just as meaty tomato-based stew.
I’m hesitant to try anything besides my two staples, however. For the longest time, all I sampled was the dry rice. For extremely discerning customers, calling the dish dry rice could be a bit misleading. The rice is not prepared with any bits of pork or kitteley, and it is not topped by an oily sauce and served with a fried fish as is normally the custom.
Instead it is simply plain rice accompanied by, what I can best describe as, several spoonfuls of a tangy carmelized onions with lettuce. Both the dry rice and attiéké, come served with a delicious whole roasted fish (or two medium sized fish fillets) and two small pieces of grilled chicken accompanied by a handful of plantains that are always warm, a dab of ketchup and a generous application of the pepper sauce, which I would venture to say is prepared with peanut butter and cuts down on the spice.
The interior of the cookshop. Photo: Brooks Marmon
I always scrape off the pepper sauce and apply it to the rice, mixing it with the lettuce and onions for a most delicious result. If the fish and chicken are fresh off the grill – sometimes they only come lukewarm, the chicken in — it is really a delicious plate.
On my last visit, I tried the attiéké, laced with a generous amount diced cucumbers and tomatoes and with a minimal application of oil, I suspect it is not only a very filling meal, but a very healthy one as well.
I would give either of these dishes my highest recommendation and in my estimation, the generous plate of rice, fish, chicken, and plantains is a far better value than a simple shawarma at the same price.
The establishment also makes for great people watching as it’s price range makes it a very affordable spot for more well-heeled professionals, and the portion sizes and quality make it a nice treat for working class diners.
I can’t imagine the cookshop is pleasant to visit during the rainy season given the tin roof and dirt floors, so the remaining months of dry season is the time to go and see if you agree with my assessment that it offers the best value food in Monrovia.
Featured photo by Brooks Marmon
